Build your stamina
If you’re a surfer who lives away from the sea, there’s plenty you can do to prepare for your time in the water. “Endurance fitness is the most important,” says Barrie Hall, national coaching director for the British Surfing Association. “Swimming is an excellent way to build this and it develops the same muscle groups as surfing – aim for a minimum of 30 minutes at 65% to 70% of your maximum heart rate.”
Think long
“The key to efficient paddling is long, purposeful strokes,” Hall says. “Start at the nose of your board and draw all the way back to your hip. Keep your body streamlined on your board, toes hanging off the end and legs together, not splayed.”
Stretch it out
Yoga is the latest trend among surfers (there’s even a DVD called Yoga For Surfers). “Almost all of the pros now practise it,” Hall says. “Flexibility and core strength are really important for performing surfing manoeuvres and preventing injury.”
Balance your emotions
While adrenaline is vital for going for that wave, too much can affect your concentration. “Get psyched up but not psyched out,” Hall advises. “Before pros go into the water, they will often meditate, listen to music or use visualisation techniques by watching the waves and seeing themselves surfing them.”
Go diagonal
Learning to ride along a wave is tough, so start by doing an angled take-off. “As the wave picks you up, go diagonally down the face instead of straight down to the bottom,” Hall says. “This gives you a bit of a head start – when you can feel the wave pushing you, pop to your feet in one fast motion.”
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